Noshing in London


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The Fat Man

 FRENCH


LA TANTE CLAIRE
The Berkeley Hotel, Wilton Place, London SW1
Tel: 0171 823 2003
Fat Man rating: 91/100

La Tante Claire's Pierre Koffman, the owner and head chef, has proven an inspiration to many of our leading chefs, probably due to the overwhelming consistency of his cuisine. His restaurant recently moved from Chelsea to this large, luxurious hotel situated on the corner with Knightsbridge itself. The new décor is interesting, especially if you like purple! It is, of course, eminently comfortable and the service is very good and very French and, perhaps, a little stiff.

Like Nico, the food is exemplary with Mr Koffman's signature dish proving totally orgasmic; "Pied de Cochon aux morilles", or Pig's trotter (feet) stuffed with sweetbreads and morel mushrooms is a real revelation. The desserts are outstanding, especially the pistachio souffle, and the cheese board is suitably sumptuous. The wine list is extraordinarily impressive and extraordinarily expensive and extraordinarily French; no Mumm Cuve Napa here.

This is a truly grand dining experience but be prepared to book at least 3 weeks in advance (unless you are happy dining at 5:30 p.m.) and bring the deed to your house as, without any alcohol, dinner for two cost us £225!

Not for kids - Immature Wall Street types bloody everywhere.
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