Noshing in London


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The Fat Man

 INTERNATIONAL


QUAGLINO'S
16 Bury Street, St James's, London SW1
Tel: 0171 930 6767
Fat Man rating: 81/100

Think big. Think very, very, very big. Think enormous. Think cavernous. Ready. Nope. You enter through an utterly normal door, descend a relatively normal staircase and you get to the very trendy bar area of Quaglino's .

Stroll forward to the main staircase and - wow! The largest dining area you have ever seen. Seats at least 600 - I kid you not. Long, sweeping staircase takes you down - and with all those people watching you just know you're going to trip - to this art deco eatery for the masses. Conversation is totally impossible as the noise levels are like the flight deck of the USS Nimitz so take a lap top and communicate via email. Also take a pen and paper to show the waiter your order as he can't hear you either.

The service is surprisingly good and the food plain and solid. Great steaks and chops from the grill, wonderful seafood, good desserts and a well-priced and imaginative wine list.

The food is not cheap; expect to pay at least £30 per person with an extra £20+ for drinks.

Kids welcome - ‘cos nobody can hear them scream.
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