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POMEGRANATES
94 Grosvenor Road, Pimlico, London SW1
Tel: 0171 828 6560
Fat Man rating: 70/100
If there wasn't a wall, if it wasn't in the basement and if it was on the other side of the road, then Patrick Gwynn-Jones' old established restaurant, Pomgranates would have a great view of our beloved River Thames. The outlook, therefore, is not the reason for visiting. Nor is the décor dark and ominous and sadly in need of a few thousand watts of up-lighting. However, Mr Gwynn-Jones, who built this place from scratch over 20 years ago, is the most charming host and has developed a wonderfully eclectic and imaginative menu.
He cures his own Gravlax (I didn't know it was unwell), his snail and wild mushroom pie is even better than it sounds and his beef comes from the very distinguished Glenbervie Angus herd which ensures the finest flavour imaginable. Better than Texan, better than Argentinean; in fact, it even tastes better than the now infamous glow-in-the dark Friesians from Chernobyl. His ice creams and sorbets are legendary and overall this is a really nice place to go for the evening. In fact, when I proposed to my wife (yes, my beloved partner, she of the bald patch, uneven leg length, halitosis and nasal hair), it was to this restaurant that I brought her (I thought that she would feel more comfortable in the dark, knowing nobody else would point and snigger) and now, 10 years on, we continue to secrete ourselves in the murky corners, safe in our anonymity.
The food is as excellent now as it was then but the prices are, sadly, a little higher, although still a good value. Expect to pay about £80 for two with another £20+ for the vino; predominantly French list but nicely thought out. Low-light image intensifiers are available from I Spy but, at around £1500 a pair, they make the meal a little costly so, eat some Chernobyl Friesian beforehand and provide your own illumination!
Kids welcome - no one would know they are there. |
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