Noshing in London


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The Fat Man

 LEBANESE


PHOENICIA
11-13 Abingdon Road, Kensington, London W8
Tel: 0171 937 0120
Fat Man rating: 82/100

Lebanese does not, perhaps, conjure up visions of fine dining but, until you've experienced the diversity of the flavours and textures of their cuisine, you haven't lived. Choose from roasted lambs eyes on a bed of fried colon, pickled monkeys' brains with a lizard-piss coulis, raw cat spleen with a chilli and hair crust or guano (bat shit) dumplings.

Okay - I exaggerate, a little. Lebanese cuisine is fundamentally (Hizbollah?) Ottoman in its style, so meze, like with Greek and Turkish food, is the best option. The flavours are truly varied and enticing. Try the moutabal (aubergine dip), the basturma (cured beef), the falafel (chick pea rissoles), the fried kibbeh (deep-fried meatballs) and, my honest-to God favourite, the Kibbeh Nayeh, which is raw lamb minced with herbs and burghul (a wheat product) and eaten wrapped in Arabic bread; wow! For main courses try the Shwarma, a kebab from heaven. This really is a wonderful way to eat and there's something for all tastes. Wine is not the best accompaniment - I drink water! - but if you want to, order something light and white.

The staff are very friendly and helpful and are happy to advise. Expect to pay from £15 to £30 per person with a bottle of wine costing £12+.

Kids very welcome.
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