Noshing in London


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The Fat Man

 FRENCH


SIMPLY NICO AT THE CROWNE PLAZA HOTEL
Crowne Plaza Hotel, Harlington Road, Heathrow
No Telephone Number Available
Fat Man rating: 70/100

Heathrow airport hardly conjures up romantic images of the finest restaurants in which to dine but, lo and behold, there is this large, ungainly hotel that looms over an industrial estate some 2 miles from the airport itself. I can not comment on any of the hotel's attributes, assuming that there are any, as I have only ever traversed the bland and sterile reception on my either to the toilet, a common occurrence, or to seek refuge in Simply Nico, which is at the rear of the hotel.

On leaving the reception and entering the restaurant, you are immediately struck by how sad it is that the same miserable bugger decided to decorate both areas; bland, bland, bland, bland. Oh yes - it's bland. You have no idea how absolutely nothing something can be. Blink and you think it's the horizon. Nondescript tables and chairs blend into the walls and floors to the extent that you're not sure whether you're sitting on a chair or a huge lump in the floor. Even a coat of magnolia would appear reckless.

You will either be greeted by a dour individual who actually has a great sense of humour or by a dour individual that doesn't. My, my - what a choice. However, once you finally make it to your table and have started to peruse the menu, it will dawn on you whose inspiration this restaurant was. Oh yeah - it's that man Nico Ladenis again! Although he no longer has any real involvement, he's certainly stamped his mark!

A fixed price £20 for two courses or £25 for three makes this outstanding value. Terrine of foie gras, ballotine of duck, monk fish or baked cod; a real cornucopia of tastes, all beautifully presented. The wines are a superb value, starting at £15 for something very drinkable. Service - dour (at times), funny (at times) and always very efficient. So, you're stranded at the airport, waiting for your delayed flight to take off, but now you can dine like a king for not a lot of money.

Kids welcome.
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