Noshing in London


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The Fat Man

 BRITISH


GREEN'S RESTAURANT & OYSTER BAR
36 Duke Street, St James's, London SW1
Tel: 0171 930 4566
Fat Man rating: 73/100

So unbelievably British in both style and cuisine that you expect the Household Cavalry to serve you! Green's arranged as a series of small rooms and you seriously need to book to get a table, even at lunch time, but there is emergency seating around the bar. The fare is very, very good. Apart from the obvious choices of oysters, try the most sumptuous, grilled calves' kidneys or the roast saddle of venison (aka Bambi grill); they even do great fish and chips. There is a fine selection of British cheeses and traditional desserts such as apple tart or steamed orange or sticky toffee pudding. The wine list is very well put together and, not surprisingly, not great value; mostly French from the better Chateaus but you pay the price.

Dinner for two will be at least £90 with the wine adding upwards of £30.

Kids not recommended.
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