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FREDERICK'S
Camden Passage, Islington, London N1
Tel: 0171 359 2888
Fat Man rating: 76/100 (would be higher if it was more accessible)
An interesting bastion of fine food, Frederick's has been around for over 30 years with the same owner continuing to surprise with his resourceful and imaginative cuisine. Situated in a narrow little back street and surrounded by antique shops selling the biggest load of junk at extortionate prices I have ever seen, its entrance is far from grand. Pass the bar area (where you can now get excellent snacks - my favourite is the salad Niçoise with crayfish) is the quite magnificent dining room, with a walled patio area where you can eat in the summer - ha ha, bloody ha.
The head chef is ex-Nico Ladenis (we're not worthy, we're not worthy etc) and the food is very much the better for his arrival. Try the foie gras sausage to start and, perhaps, the smoked haddock and asparagus risotto. Desserts are classic and well prepared; the wine list is excellent, with some well-aged Riojas to dribble over; in fact, a meal for two will cost you less than £100 with wine so it isn't too pernicious on your pocket. The location does, however, suck so be prepared for a £10 cab ride each way.
Kids welcome. |
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