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Dell'Ugo
56 Frith Street, Soho, London W1
Tel: 0171 734 8300
Fat Man rating: 85/100
This popular, multi-story eatery is in the ownership of one Anthony Worrall Thompson, who is a celebrity chef who pops up in various TV programmes from "Ready, Steady Cook" to "Lovechilds of the Rich and Famous!" He's bloody everywhere - and hideously ugly to boot. You'd think he'd be bright enough to stick to radio and newspaper, but no. His ego must be even bigger than his nose which, trust me, is reminiscent of a Pelican. However, I digress, as he has created a number of excellent restaurants, Dell' Ugo being my favourite. There are 3 floors; a café/bar, a bistro and the restaurant, although dining is very relaxed in all three.
His style is to take strong, Mediterranean flavours, such as goat's cheese with spicy tomato vinagrette or fresh crab and dill crostini, and to blend them all together. It works very well and culminates in an eclectic but adventurous meal. The café/bar serves great tapas (Spanish meze) and Meze (everybody else's). The wine list is modern, New Worldy and a great value - there are also over a dozen wines by the glass, so you can get a buzz on and confused at the same time. The staff is very friendly and able; predominantly Antipodean but what else can you get for $2 an hour?
Dinner for two is a remarkable value, from £15 to £35 per head depending on what and where and the wine is about £13 upwards.
Kids welcome. |
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