CHEZ NICO
90 Park Lane, London W1 (next to Grovesnor House Hotel)
Tel: 0171 409 1290
Fat Man rating: 100/100
Chez Nico is Numero Uno, The Big Cheese,The Whole Enchilada. Wow. Or, the finest restaurant I have ever eaten at, anywhere in the world. Yeah, I like this one. With a restrained, canopied entrance, this bastion of haute cuisine is the flagship of one Nico Ladenis, my preferred choice of three star chefs (thanks, Tarantino).
The dining room is spacious, bright, elegant and thoroughly conducive to fine dining. The staff are perfection; attentive, talented, knowledgeable but, most importantly, never intrusive.
The menu is not cheap; choose from the a la Carte at £55 for two courses with desserts at around £12, or the menu gastronomique at £80 for seven courses. The presentation is an art form and the flavours match the display. There is a profusion of foie gras in various formats with the usual favourites, such as scallops, sweetbreads and lobster all making an appearance; the sea bass is spectacular, as is the filet of Scotch beef. The desserts are equal to the challenge and, should you be brave, the assiette (a selection of around six different desserts), will enable you to see your waistline increase with each mouthful. But who cares?
It really does not get any better then this! The wine is, naturally, very expensive but some of the finest Burgundies and Bordeauxs are available; for value, try the Menetou Salon at £25. Book well in advance.
Not for kids or immature surfer dudes.
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