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STEPHEN BULL
5-7 Blandford Street, London W1
Tel: 0171 486 9696
Fat Man rating: 71/100
Now, let me introduce you to my partner in crime, Steve; aka The Fat Man 2. It would appear that to be a chauffeur necessitates owning an expanded waistline so trust me when I say that we won't disappoint in this matter. Steve has a similar love of fine food but is, alas, allergic to alcohol which results in two interesting incidents whenever we dine together; firstly, I get to drink the whole bottle of wine and, secondly, he gets to moan incessantly about splitting the bill 50/50 as he only had water. Life sucks, eh?! Anyway, I digress. Stephen Bull, I love it. He doesn't. But this is my column so nuts, I say.
Decorated in a style reminiscent of post-modernist, eclectic minimalism (beige walls to save money), the ambience is cool and sophisticated if a little bland. The tables are spacious enough but your neighbour will know if a little bottom burp slips out so just be careful and keep the cork from the wine. The food is beautifully presented and well balanced. There is a healthy bent to the menu and the dishes are predominantly free of over-powering sauces. Personal favourites include the goat's cheese soufflé and the ballotine of duck confit to start, the lamb with rosemary jus or the pan-fried red bream to follow and the obligatory "variation on a theme of chocolate" to complete. The wine list is a good value and has offerings from all over the world. The staff are incredibly friendly and very efficient and it all makes for a very charming night out.
Expect to pay about £35 per person for the food and £13+ for the drinks.
Kids would be accepted.
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