Noshing in London


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The Fat Man

 FRENCH
BISTRO BALZAC
4 Wood Lane, Shepherds Bush, London W12
Tel: 0181 743 5370
Fat Man rating: 78/100

Come out of Los Molinos, turn right, walk for a mile and you get to Bistro Balzac. Decorated in the most lamentable style, with old pock-marked tables and Martini garden umbrellas, the prospect of euthanasia seems instantly appealing. Squint across the dimly-lit cave at the blackboard which shows the specials of the day and you will be pleasantly surprised. Keeping true to traditional French recipes, the fish soup and beef bourguignon are genuinely impressive, as are the mussels and the monk fish roasted in mustard. In fact, I have been eating there for over 15 years and have never, ever had a bad meal. The wine list is totally French but a good value - try the Tavel Rose for a refreshing change.

At the very most, a 3 course meal will cost you £25 per person and the wine adds another £11 upwards. A real taste of France - in a suitably dismal setting.

Kids welcome - beware of garlic breath afterwards.
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