Noshing in London


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The Fat Man

 JAPANESE
AKASAKA
10a Golders Green Road, London NW11
Tel: 0181 455 0676
Fat Man rating: 85/100

Akasaka is a bit off the beaten track, about a 20 minute drive north of Central London. This first floor cafe/restaurant is accessed via a small front door in Golders Green Crescent and sits above a 711 convenience store. The décor is drab and reminiscent of 10 minutes after the bomb was dropped, with little wooden tables and chairs segregated by wooden dividers, the sushi bar seats six and the toilets are a further 6000 feet above sea level.

The staff, whilst very friendly, are totally crap unless you get the wife, who's better. The food is utterly brilliant. The sushi, made by Mr Akasaka himself, is moist, tender and could teach some of the big West End restaurants how to do it. The starters, all traditional and authentic, are well priced and luscious (try the Negima and the Tataki), the Dobin Miso soup divine and their Sukiyaki (a sort of broiled barbecue at the table) is to die for. No wine list as such and who cares - they have a 100 litre vat of hot Sake!

Dinner for two with pickled athlete's socks sake around £80; dead cheap for Japanese.

Kids almost obligatory.
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