Thus was the Dartmoor Inn described by Charles Kingsley in Westward Ho! as
the place where Yeo slew the King of the Gubbins - a family of ruffians who
terrorised the area in the reign of Charles I.
Aficionados of pigs, barefoot children and dirt will be disappointed if they
visit the Dartmoor Inn today. Admittedly, its construction is still of granite,
but its roof is sound and its environs well cared for. Inside, the greatest
attention has been paid to its decor and ambience. Warmed by the traditional log
fire, it provides an informally rustic atmosphere through the use of the
traditional Shaker colours of blue, green and terracotta in combination with
such items as handmade quilts, folk art and flowers. A feature of its interior
is a number of ingle nooks and niches where customers can enjoy privacy amongst
a convivial company.
As a centre, the inn provides access to a wide variety of country walks
created by local guides for all levels of fitness, including those to the
Lydford Gorge and Falls.
Now to the cuisine! Here I feel a kinship with a gymnastics judge who has
just awarded a perfect six elsewhere only to find that a superior routine
follows it.
Were the cuisine to be served in the surroundings of the inn in early Stuart
times, it would still be worth the trip. In the year 2000, they were awarded two
rosettes by the AA. They seem well pleased with this. For my part, I cannot
think why it was not more. It is a measure of the care taken over their
ingredients that the beef on the menu is specified according to its breed and
local farm of origin. A highly imaginative and beautifully prepared standard
menu is augmented at frequent intervals by what can only be described as
banquets. These are generally prompted by some excuse or another, but they have
their 'raison d'etre' in the intrinsic excellence of the gastronomic flights of
fancy conjured up by Karen Burgess, their culinary muse. No gourmet passing
within fifty miles of this hostelry should give it a miss.
I have one caveat - it would be a sensible precaution to book in advance.
Keep watching
for more pubs from across Devon & Somerset.
