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Tours > Wales > Cardiff
Cardiff (Caerdydd: KIre Deethe)
In 1955, the city of Cardiff received the much-fought over honor of being selected as the capital of Wales. The competition had been fierce, with strong claims coming in from Carmarthen, Caernarfon, Aberystwyth and Machynlleth. But Cardiff was already by far the largest city in Wales, with a population over 300,000, and its impressive modern-baroque Civic Center was as fine a collection of buildings as could be seen in Europe. It also had political clout and the wealth to back up its bid. Since the decision, the new Capital has experienced phenomenal growth, and its plethora of new hotels, office complexes, smart restaurants, trendy stores, the huge Cardiff Bay Project and International Rugby Stadium at famed Arms Park have all justified the choice.
 The history of Cardiff goes back at least to the times of the Romans, traces of whose occupation can be seen in parts of the castle walls. The Normans built an impressive fortification here, but it wasn't until the 19th century, with the rapid growth of Cardiff's industrial hinterland, that the city grew to any considerable size and importance. South Wales became, almost overnight, the chief iron and coal producing region of Britain, and the city of Cardiff was ideally situated at the base of the five great coal valleys, to serve as their port.
Thanks to the Marquis of Bute, enormous sums were spent on creating the docks, connected to the mining and manufacturing towns by canal, and later by railroad, and at the beginning of the 20th century, the city was exporting more coal than any other port in the world. Bute Town's fine buildings, now being restored, are a physical reminder of the wealth attracted by the export trade.
Bute Street leads directly to Cardiff Bay, now being redeveloped into a vibrant centre of the arts, following the complete collapse of the coal exporting trade, in one of the largest development schemes in Europe. It will add much to the entertainment in and political life of the city, for it is also here that the Welsh Assembly Building will arise, signifying Wales' importance as a semi-independent nation with a great deal of control over its own affairs.
Cardiff was also the 1999 venue for one of the most important sporting events in the world, the World Rugby Cup championships. A massive new stadium was erected which, with its retractable all-weather roof, walkways, restaurants and unimpeded seating, is one of the finest stadiums in the world. The stadium stands proudly along the River Taff, almost in the centre of the city; adding to its reputation as a "people-friendly" place to live, work, or visit.
Known as the City of Arcades, Cardiff already has many of its fine shopping streets under cover in the delightful Victorian arcades in addition to the modern St. David's Shopping Centre. The heart of the city is still dominated by its huge, impressive Castle, most of which was built on the grounds of the old Norman Castle. A half-day visit here can give only some idea of the vast fortunes amassed by the Bute family, who hired the architect William Burgess to work on their elaborate masterpiece as well as on nearby Castell Coch, itself well worth a visit to enjoy the fanciful creation of the architect with no limits to what he could spend.
 Other important places to visit are the National Museum of Wales, next to the Civic Centre in Cathay's Park; the Temple of Peace and Health of 1928; St. David's Concert Hall, venue of the annual Cardiff singer of the world competition and the highlight of the music calender in Wales, Welsh Proms held each July; the Welsh Folk Museum at St. Fagan's; nearby Llandaff Cathedral (pictured, right); City Hall, with its marble statues of Welsh heroes, including Owain Glyndwr, Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffudd, William Williams, Pantycelyn and others; and St. John's Church, the only medieval church to survive in the city. Cathedral Road has a long line of hotels, all occupying stately Victorian houses built when fortunes were made from the coal industry. The city is also home to the world-famous Welsh National Opera.
The National Museum of Wales is not so large that it cannot be explored in a day's visit. Its light, airy art galleries contain not only fine examples paintings by Welsh artists, including Richard Wilson, August John and Ceri Richards, but also masterpieces by Rodin, Renoir and Monet as well as works by leading French and English impressionists. Its permanent exhibitions include the Evolution of Wales, with dazzling audio-visual displays, Natural History in Wales, with its spectacular replica of sea cliffs, and Man and the Environment, featuring the world's largest leatherback turtle (stranded off the coast of North Wales in 1988). The museum's outstanding display of Welsh ceramics is alone worth a visit.
The National Folk Museum of Wales is situated in St. Fagan's (San Ffagan), a pleasant suburb of Cardiff. Centered on the Elizabethan mansion of St Fagan's Castle, and occupying approximately 100 acres, it is one of the outstanding museums of the world. Here you can see buildings brought from all areas of Wales, including a saw mill, tanning mill, bakery, some fine medieval farm houses and country dwellings, a wool mill, a stone-built cockpit and a chapel. There is also a row of miner's cottages brought intact from their original valley that show life indoors over two centuries. Even the gardens have been reproduced to show the types of vegetables grown by different generations of miners and their families.
On the grounds of the museum are dove-cotes, a flock of native Welsh black sheep, horse-drawn, farm carriage rides and a chance to see craftsmen at work, including a basket-maker, baker, blacksmith, and wood turner. The three indoor galleries are devoted to agriculture, music, costume and material culture from all regions of Wales, and all periods of Welsh history. Plan at least a full-day visit to take in all their thoughtfully-displayed exhibits.
The city of Cardiff contains 440 acres of parks and open spaces. The Cardiff Festival, held each year at the end of July, celebrates pop, world, and jazz music, theatre, street performers, opera, and family events. The Glamorgan County Cricket Ground, in Sophia Gardens, is a pleasant walk from the city center over the River Taff at Cardiff Bridge.
Near the city can be found such attractive and historical venues as the Big Pit (Blaenavon, Gwent), the Rhondda Heritage Park at Trehafod, Cyfarthfa Castle Museum and Art Gallery at Merthyr Tydfil and Llancaiach Fawr Manor at Nelson (near Treharris), where life during the English Civil War is vividly portrayed by actors in costume in a magnificently restored mansion. You'll also find much overlooked, but extremely well-presented Cosmeston Medieval Village at Penarth, Tredegar House and Gardens, Newport and Dyffryn Gardens and Tinkinswood Burial Chamber at St. Nicholas.
A few miles west of Cardiff, near Llantwit Major, on the coast, is St. Donat's Castle, a restored 14-16th baronial mansion once owned by the Stradling family (of smuggling fame), but bought and restored by American publisher and millionaire William Randolph Hearst. It now houses the International Atlantic College and St. Donat's Arts Center with its exhibitions in a converted tithe barn. The Castle hosts an annual International Storytelling Festival each July when Britain's finest collection of story tellers gather with their jokes, riddles, epics, myths, folk tales and ballads.
Golfers are well served in the Cardiff area by Glamorganshire Golf Club (Lavernock Rd, Penarth off the M4 at junction 33); and the Vale of Glamorgan Club at Hensol (junction 34). Cardiff is easily reached by road, rail and air from London or Manchester. Coaches leave from Heathrow and Victoria Bus Station, London; and fast, comfortable trains from Victoria Rail Station.
Next Stop: Barry
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