Tours > Sir Francis Drake > Outer Plymouth
In Search of Sir Francis Drake by Kathryn Gillett, Elizabethan England on Britannia
Outer Plymouth 53 Miles South-West of Exeter
During the next few days, I
went on my own sort of adventures - a series of safe drives to see a
number of historical landmarks. My first stop was St. Budeaux's church
where Drake and his first wife were married. I walked through the
soundless churchyard, heavily padded with long, wet grass. Inside the
dark, silent church I imagined the wedding ceremony. Being before
Drake's fame and wealth, there would have been reasonable concerns about
the groom's prospects. As they exchanged their vows, the couple must
have anticipated a life of struggle on a mariner's income. Little did
anyone in attendance know that in just a few years, Drake would become
wealthy beyond anything they could dream of. And so famous he would be
knighted by - and given private audiences with - the Queen herself.
I drove through quiet, low
rolling hills to get to the Antony House grounds, a home of wealth in
which Drake socialized in the 1590s. I was disappointed that the house
itself was closed, it being winter, but enjoyed a quiet drive through the
beautiful grounds, taking in the house from a distance. I wondered if
Drake ever looked out onto these same hills, trees and meadows and
considered his life's story: how unlikely it was that a wretched boy,
raised in a wrecked shell of a ship, would grow up to become a national
hero, mingling in the highest of social circles.
It was a bit tricky navigating
by myself through the maze of country lanes, but I eventually wound my way
to Trematon Castle. It is an ancient castle, possibly some 800 years old,
that remains a private residence. I stopped the car in the tiny lane that
winds around the castle knowing that somewhere inside, over 400 years ago,
a magnificent treasure had been stored there.
When Drake returned from
circumnavigating the globe, he did so with an immense cache of gold,
silver, and emeralds - the result of plundering Spanish ships along the
unguarded west coast of South America.
At the time, England and Spain
were locked in an unstable, cold war standoff - an unsteady accord that
could have suddenly exploded into bloody warfare. Drake's exploits
pushed the line between privateering and piracy: The English thought Drake
was a valiant privateer, legitimately taking booty from their Spanish
foes; while the Spanish thought he was a dreaded pirate, wantonly stealing
what was rightfully theirs.
Drake's treasure was the
cause of a diplomatic dispute that could easily have fanned the fire to
open warfare. The Spanish wanted it returned; Elizabeth wanted her
lion's share of it in her coffers. Because of this, the counting and
moving of the booty was highly classified, so much so that we still do not
know how much treasure Drake and his crew brought back. Some say there was
so much that Drake escorted 20,000 pounds worth of the booty for his own
"safekeeping" - but nobody noticed it was missing. Some say even the
cabin boy became a millionaire. But we really don't know. Regardless of
the myriad myths surrounding the booty - we do know it was so massive,
it replaced all the ballast in the bottom of his great, top-heavy ship. We
also know that before being transported and stored in London Tower, this
magnificent plunder was taken off the Golden Hinde and stored here at
Trematon Castle.
I headed on to Cohetele
(pronounced: coat-EEL) House, a beautiful medieval great house that
has been restored and is maintained by The National Trust. It being
winter, most of the house was closed, but the Main Hall was open and
decorated with traditional Christmas garlands. I was delighted that they
have maintained its ancient feel with such details as not installing
electric lights. It added a truth to the experience for me, being in a
great house as it would have been hundreds of years ago - low lighting
and all.
Buckland Abbey is also just
outside of Plymouth. Sir Richard Grenville bought the Abbey to give to his
son Roger when Henry VIII was selling church property as part of his
much-disputed suppression of the monasteries. But - as history so often
intertwines otherwise unrelated stories - Roger became commander of The
Mary Rose and died when the ship sank in 1545. His son, the second
Richard Grenville inherited Buckland Abbey and by 1576, he had turned it
into a comfortable house with fireplaces, a vast kitchen and an elegant
great hall. Since Grenville was a seasoned snob, he refused to sell the
Abbey to baseborn Drake, even though the Queen had just recently honored
Drake with knighthood. But an owner refusing to sell was no obstacle for
the persistent Drake, who acquired the Abbey through a third party
solicitor in 1581. It was then, with one eye still set on the sea, Drake
settled into a successful, yet less-than-contented life as a wealthy
landowner and civic leader.
Next Stop: Leaving for Home
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