Tours > Royal County of Berkshire Towns > Hungerford
Hungerford
Hungerford,
though in Berkshire, has the layout of a
typical Hampshire market town: a great
wide High Street with quaint little shops
lining both sides as far as the eye can
see. A picturesque arcaded town hall once
stood in the middle of the road, but the
Victorians pulled it down in favour of a
new version, the very imposing red brick
building with Byzantine style tower that
we see today. There are two good car
parks, well sign posted from here.
Hungerford is the antiques capital of
Berkshire and almost every other shop
seems to have a bygone age for sale. The
'Hungerford Arcade' is a particularly
fascinating place to mooch round and you
may even find yourself a bargain.
Individual dealers each have their own
small kiosks here, all undercover and
centrally controlled. Almost adjoining is
the 'Courtyard': a delightful hidden
quadrangle with shops and eateries in
ancient overhangs.
The town is
well-known for its large number of pubs
and the Three Swans Hotel, with its huge
bow windows, is an excellent place to sit
and watch town-life go by. There are more
watering holes as you move towards Bridge
Street. Note the delightful
Wysteria-covered 'Bridge House' with its
Regency upper floor access point, as you
pass. The 'John of Gaunt' Inn is named
after Hungerford's local hero. This 14th
century son of King Edward III was the
Lord of the Manor who handed over the
jealously guarded fishing rights on the
River Kennet to the townsfolk. His
patronage is celebrated with the annual
'Hocktide' festivities. On the second
Tuesday after Easter, the Hocktide Court
is called in the town hall while two
"Tutti-Men" collect fishing
right fines from the residents of the
High Street. The "Orange-Man"
gives out oranges to the ladies in return
for a kiss!
The River Kennet
flows through Hungerford at Eddington, a
pretty hamlet now merged into the town on
its Northern Edge. Follow the road up the
hill towards the M4 and the keen-eyed may
spot two memorial crosses to policemen
murdered by poachers in the late 19th
century. The River Dun also bisects the
town, running behind the Bear Inn in
Charnham Street. This huge coaching inn
is, perhaps, the most historic building
in the town. Dating back to the 15th
century, William of Orange was a resident
for several nights during the Glorious
Revolution of 1688 and was here offered
the Crown of England.
Despite
these two rivers, the main waterway in
Hungerford is the Kennet and Avon Canal,
opened in 1799. Colourful barge trips are
a regular feature of the old Wharf and
there are always ducks and swans to feed.
The lock was restored in 1974 and there
are pleasant canal-side walks down
towards the parish church. St. Lawrence's
is an early example of Gothic revival
architecture, rebuilt when the previous
structure almost collapsed in 1814. It is
usually open to the public and houses
some beautiful stained glass. There is a
rare 'clapper' stile in the churchyard.
Hungerford
Common lies at the end of Park Street,
not far from the Railway Station. It is a
surprising area of open parkland (200
acres) on the edge of the town, still
used for grazing cattle as it has been
for centuries. Hence the cattle grid and
'Down Gate' to stop them wandering into
town! It is a great place for a picnic,
to fly a kite or walk the dog and is
occasionally used for shows and
circuses.
Next Stop:
Wantage
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