
It is no new thing
for us to see records established one day and
beaten the next, the top place nowadays being no
sooner reached by one individual than challenged
by, another. The record in the manufacture of
cloth, however, with which this article deals,
though of eighty-eight years' standing, has never
yet been eclipsed.
The scene of this remarkable achievement in
the sartorial art is the village of Newbury,
Berkshire, and it came about in this way. Mr.
John Coxeter, a then well-known cloth
manufacturer, the owner of Greenham Mills, at the
above-named village, remarked in the course of
conversation one day in the year 1811 to Sir John
Throckmorton, Bart., of Newbury, "So great
are the improvements in machinery I have lately
introduced into my mill, that I believe that in
twenty- four hours I could take the coat off your
back, reduce it to wool, and turn it back into a
coat again."
The proverb says, "There's many a true
word spoken in jest. "So great an impression
did Mr. Coxeter's boast make upon the Baronet,
that afterwards he enquired of Mr. Coxeter if it
would really be possible to make a coat from
sheeps' wool between the sunrise and sunset of a
summer's day. That gentleman, after carefully
calculating the time required for the various
processes, replied that in his opinion it could
be done.
Not long after the above conversation, which
took at a dinner party, Sir John Throckmorton
laid a of a thousand guineas that at eight
o'clock in the evening of June the 25th, 1811, he
would sit down to dinner in a well-woven,
properly-made coat, the wool of which formed the
fleeces of sheeps' backs at five o'clock that
same morning. Such an achievement appearing
practically impossible to his listeners, his bet
was eagerly accepted.
Sir John entrusted the accomplishment of the
feat to Mr. Coxeter and shortly before five
o'clock on the morning stated, the early-rising
villagers of Newbury were astonished to see their
worthy squire, accompanied by his shepherd and
two sheep, journeying towards Greenham Mills.
Promptly at five o'clock operations commenced,
and no time was lost in getting the sheep
shorn. Our first illustration, which
is from an old print executed at the time, shows
the sheep being shorn by the shepherd, and is
worthy of a little attention. Sir John stands in
the middle of the picture, having his
measurements taken by the tailor, and it is an
interesting fact that, except that all implements
to be used were placed in readiness on the field
of action, the smallest actual operations in the
making of the coat were performed between the
hours mentioned.
Mr. Coxeter stands just behind the
sheepshearer, watching with an anxious eye,
whilst to the right (see full picture top)
may be seen a tent, which was erected presumably
for refreshments, and schoolboys climbing a
greasy-pole and generally making the best of the
holiday which had been accorded them in order
that they might witness this singular spectacle.
The sheep being shorn, the wool was washed,
stubbed, roved, spun, and woven, and our next
illustration, also from an old print, shows the
weaving, which was performed by Mr. Coxeter
Junior, who had been found by previous
competition to be themost expert workman. In the
background of this picture may
be seen the carcass of one of the
sheep; of which more later. The curious-looking
objects in the basket, held, by the way, by
another of Mr. Coxeter's sons, are wool spools,
while in the extreme background, looking out of
the window of a quaint old cottage, may be seen
"the gods in the gallery."
When we compare the primitive-looking loom
seen in this picture with the powerful machinery
of today, the record then established certainly
becomes all the more wonderful.
The cloth thus manufactured was next scoured,
fulled, tented, raised, sheared, dyed, and
dressed, being completed by four o'clock in the
afternoon. Just eleven hours after the arrival of
the two sheep in the mill-yard. In the meantime,
the news of the wager had spread abroad among the
neighbouring villages, bringing crowds of people
eager to witness the conclusion of this
extraordinary undertaking. The cloth was now put
into the hands of the tailor, Mr. James White,
who had already got all measurements ready during
the operations, so that not a moment
should be lost: and he, together
with nine of his men, with needles all threaded,
at once started on it. For the next two hours and
a quarter the tailors were busy cutting out,
stitching, pressing, and sewing on buttons, in
fact, generally converting the cloth into a
"well woven, properly made coat," and
at twenty minutes past six Mr. Coxeter presented
the coat to Sir John Throckmorton, who put the
garment on before an assemblage of over five
thousand people, and sat down to dinner with it
on, together with forty gentlemen, at eight
o'clock in the evening
The next illustration shown is a photograph of
this wonderful coat. The garment was a large
hunting-coat of the then admired dark Wellington
colour, a sort of a damson tint. It had been
completed in the space of thirteen hours and ten
minutes, the wager thus being won with an hour
and three quarters to spare.
To commemorate the event, the two sheep who
were the victim of Mr. Coxeter's energy were
killed and roasted whole in a meadow nearby, and
distributed to the public, together with 120
gallons of strong beer, this latter being the
gift of Mr. Coxeter.
Our next illustration is an 1899
photograph of Mr. Charles Coxeter, of Abingdon,
Berks, the last living eye-witness to this feat.
He was the younger brother to the weaver of the
cloth, long since dead, who is shown in our
second illustration. His age at the time was
ninety-three. When approached on the subject he
said he well remembered the event, and recalls
with pleasure seeing the workmen dine off
portions of the sheep, in a barge on the river
near the mill. The original mill unfortunately no
longer stands, having long since been destroyed.
We now give an illustration of the silver
medal which was struck in honour of the occasion.
It is worded as follows:
"Presented
to Mr. John Coxeter, of Greenham Mills, by the
Agricultural Society, for manufacturing wool into
cloth and into a coat in thirteen hours and ten
minutes."
Mr. Coxeter was a very enterprising
individual, for seemingly not content with this
wonderful achievement, not many years after, in
connection with the public rejoicings for peace
after the Battle of Waterloo, he had a gigantic
plum-pudding made, which was cooked under the
supervision of twelve ladies. This monster
pudding measured over 20ft in length, and was
conveyed to his house on a large timber waggon,
drawn by two oxen, which were highly decorated
with blue ribbons. The driver was similarly
ornamented, and bore aloft an old family sword of
state, presumably to give éclat to the
occasion. Arrived at its destination, the pudding
was cut up in the celebrated old mill-yard at
Greenham, and distributed to all and sundry,
those who had the good fortune partake of it
pronouncing the pudding to be "as nice as
mother makes 'em."
The famous coat which found a
resting-place in a glass case in Sir John
Throckmorton's hall at Buckland House, was
exhibited at the great International Exhibition
of 1851, where it attracted a great deal of
attention. A few copies of the old engravings
from which our first two illustrations are
reproduced being eagerly bought up. Our last
picture shows the bill which was printed for that
exhibition.
Over thirty years afterwards the coat was
again brought before public notice, this time at
the Newbury Art and Industrial Exhibition of
1884. Though to us it may seem rather a curious
cut for a hunting-coat, it was the approved style
for those times, the long coat-tails flying to
the wind during a chase. Needless to say,
however, this coat has never been used for that
purpose.
These are certainly days of speed, and though
probably with the vastly superior machinery of
today (1899) this wonderful performance could be
eclipsed, it is interesting to notice that up to
the present it has never been equalled.
Since the above article was originally
published in 1899, the making of the famous
'Newbury Coat,' as the garment has become known,
has been re-enacted only once. On September 21st,
1991, a second identical Newbury Coat was
produced in exactly the same manner, but beating
the previously set record by a whole hour. The
second Newbury Coat can now be seen in the West
Berkshire Museum in Newbury. The original left
Buckland with the Throckmortons and is now on
display at their Warwickshire home of Coughton
Court.